![]() > unbelievable since the only water there had to be taken from the atmosphere. > materials and water out there just to pour the slab and foundation was > there about 6 years ago and the expense and logistics of getting the > some property out in the desert many miles from the road. I also agree with him about not understanding why mortaredīlock walls are the norm when dry stacked walls are so much easier and Through the parging process with the shotcrete or surface bondingĬement. Mark is also spot on the money about being able to cover any flaws Suggest to the original poster that he do the same. I've tried that I would trust to hold a heavy concrete wall togetherĬonsidering the penalty involved for guessing wrong. Reinforcement until I can get the walls shotcreted, which is where the Walls together and it works okay, but that's only for temporary I have used plenty of "contractor grade" adhesive to hold parts of my This considering the washers cost 2 or 3 cents apiece. Good job as shims, but a lot of local masons like to use pennies for Of a mason's level and use shims wherever necessary. The way to deal with keeping the courses plumb is to make regular use Other (non-economical) reason to use block. Maybe other areas theĬost advantage is better, but here I don't think it would be economical.Īnd other than needing a very intricate shape, I can't think of any The 10% savings really quickly with the labor and materials cost ofĪdding the vertical and horizontal bond beams. Unreinforced block walls cost within about 10% of poured concrete whichĪre only about 10% less than precast concrete. Poured concrete if I needed that much reinforcement. Seems like they could use a closed bottom block to make lifeĮasier for the horizontal beam fabrication. That was my thinking also, but the blocks didn't seem to be designed for > grouted and it is done usually in 4-foot lifts. Only the cells and bond beams that have bars are It is common construction to use rebar at 32" o/c vert and > stuffed in the holes below the bond beam block that don't contain > something similar (could be an old shirt for that matter) that gets > Actually, I believe the masons normally have a piece of screen or >rebar, however, you'd have to have a block closed at the bottom for >contained the rebar and likewise the horizontal cores that contain the I was thinking of just filling the vertical cores that >OK, so you have to fill all of the cores of all of the blocks then to And, when your blockĭoesn't run just right to an opening, you may have to sawġ/4" off the ends or something like that, as you can't make Problem, but you better believe you'll have fits trying to Suffered by cmu, unless you have a mortar joint to make upĭifferences. Real pain with a product with manufacturing tollerences Maintaining plumb as well as aligned stretchers can be a as to the "lot easier" part, novice or pro. > It seems to me that it would at least be as strong as a > That got me to thinking, Can construction adhesive be used ![]() > of it could be kicked down with my foot. > I was tearing down a concrete block wall the other day and You're always welcome to e-mail with questions If you'd like to do a drive-by, remove the "NOSPAM"įrom the URL below. I am building a house in this fashion adapted from and for conditions GoodĬonstruction practices call for spacing your vertical rebar/grout Horizontal rebar by parging your walls in this fashion. Layer only needs to be 1/8" so your water usage and your capitalĮxpenditures will be minimal. The shotcrete sprayerĬan be had for around $200 ( ) and the application Walls will still be standing in the year 2500. ![]() Mix some nylon reinforcementįibers in from Nycon ( ) with your shotcrete mix and your Walls with a mix of Portland and sand in a 3:1 mix and get a building You can dry-stack the concrete block and then shotcrete the block Adding rebar and filling some or all of the coresĬertainly does add much additional strength, but if you don't need it, Put a heavy building on top, it will resist a far bit of verticalīending load. Tension so it doesn't resist bending loads very well. My last house wasīuilt this way and the only problem with it was when a tree root grewĬoncrete block is very strong in compression, but relatively weak in Have no filled cores, durawall or anything else. There are are many 40+ year old foundationsĪround my locale (northeast) made from lowly 8" concrete blocks that Bare block can make a wall that is strong enoughįor many applications. ![]() > in and the mortar just holds the block together until poured. > From my understanding the block wall is just a vessel holding the concrete (If you find a product for this application If you find an adhesive to bond the blocks together and then pour it solid
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